3 Borromean Islands – Lake Maggiore, Italy.

When travelling with Back Roads Touring  on their “Italian Indulgence” small group tour, we had the chance to island-hop the three Borromean Islands on the majestic Lake Maggiore.

After all, if the Borromean Islands are good enough for current English royalty to visit, it was good enough for us to spend a day!

Staying on the shores of Lake Maggiore, a pristine pre-Alpine lake with 11 small islands scattered throughout, gave us the opportunity to spend a day exploring the Borromean Islands.

The Borromean family bought and developed these little jewels in the 14^thcentury to be their own private homes and playground (as you would if you had the dollars).  These are still owned by the same family who have opened the incredible palaces and gardens to the general public.

Note – The benefit of being with a small group tour and having an excellent guide is that you have a broad overview of the islands on arrival  – including, importantly, several suggested venues to eat and shop.  (Not necessarily in that order!)

All Aboard for a day with Nobility 

First – Isola Madre

Isola Madre is the largest island (commonly known as the Mother Island) and was our first stop on the small boat ride. Approaching the island, on what was a perfect day, it was easy to imagine what life might have been like on this “playground of rich and famous”. Interestingly, this island’s palace and gardens had a definite English atmosphere and was surrounded by remarkable botanical gardens full of rare plants and manicured lawns.

An ancient massive Cypress tree (called the Cypress of Kashmir) is a main feature in front of the palace.  This ancient specimen arrived on the island as a seedling in a small paper bag from the Himalayan region 212 years ago.

A tornado in 2006 sadly saw the entire tree uprooted!  Skilled gardeners, technicians, engineers came quickly to the rescue with three cranes, winches and steel cables and the tree was successfully saved.    (A very interesting story).

The palace had many beautifully styled English traditional rooms and even a Puppet theatre for the young children of the day to enjoy.  (OK so some of the puppets were slightly off-putting, but nothing compared to some of the TV shows of today!)

A coffee stop was next on the agenda after a long walk through the palace and grounds, where we frequently had partridges, peacocks and other exotic birds for company.  (Note – if you sit and drink a coffee at the café you pay extra so it’s better to get a takeaway and find a seat amongst the gardens.)

Second stop at Borromean Islands – Isola Bella

Isola Bella (known as the “sisters) was our next island stop. The palace here, probably the most famous, was larger and very ornate designed in a classic Italian style with lots of glitz and glamour.  Immaculate gardens with statues and pyramid shaped formal terraces covered the entire island.   Although there wasn’t a gardener in sight, there must be quite a team to keep the landscape so pristine.

Was Napolean Really Here?

Now here’s a bit of goss…Napoleon Bonaparte had a one night stand in the Palace in 1797.  Well… not exactly one night stand, but he did stay at the palace for one night!

The lower floor has a grotto built with black and white pebbles creating a cool effect for hot summers.  This definitely worked as it was a scorcher when we were there and the grotto temperature was much cooler.

Third stop – Isola dei Pescatori

Our last ‘port of call’ was Isola dei Pescatori  (aka Fisherman’s Island).  A haven for fishermen and writers this is the only Borromean island that  reflects the original occupations of its residents.

Fishermen were busy preparing their boats, moored along the dock, for the next catch of the day.

From the tourist side there are tiny traditional shops, alleyways to explore and many restaurants and cafes.  What better way to finish a day of island-hopping  than with a pizza and wine or maybe fish and chips!  Then there’s the amazing Tiramisu Classic Italian desert to try – we actually made one of these in a cooking class at Lake Maggiore!

How to reach the Borromean Islands.

• If you are not with a tour group, but driving a vehicle, all information on ticket prices can be found on the Musement site.
• There’s also a nine hour round trip from Milan that can be booked through Viator.com

How to get there:

• By car: from the A26 exit at Stresa-Baveno.
• By train: Stresa railway station.
• Take the public service boat to Isola Madre from Stresa, Verbania, Baveno or Arona

Handy Travel Tips 

My general travel tips may be of use (hopefully!)

However you get there, Island-Hopping the Borromean Islands should be on everyone’s bucket list.