Cycling the Ancient Appian Way in Rome

Just for one day we were 19^th century time-travellers exploring the beauty of ancient Appian Way on push bikes away from the city mayhem.

Rome had provided us with five intense, but exciting, sight-seeing days and we were keen for a  cycle ride.   The Ancient Appian Way (2,300 years old) on two wheels was just what the doctor ordered.

Although, this was no Tour de France circuit, as we had electric bikes that proved very handy getting up several slight inclines and massive stone sections of the road.

The Appian Way with Top Bike Rental and Tours

I’d booked this tour on-line with Top Bike Rental and Tours before leaving Australia, although you can walk in off the street on the day.

The bike location is only a short Metro ride from the centre of Rome and then a quick bus trip.  We took the soft option and grabbed a taxi from the hotel for $10.

Australians, New Zealanders, Canadians, English and Spanish made up the group plus our English speaking guide. Very multicultural!

An electric bike overview was first up.  Just as well because they’re slightly different to the old  bikes used back home in OZ – heavier to handle.  Carbon fibre bikes were also available, but everyone went for electric – even the youngest people in the group.

Kitted out with our bikes, helmets, water bottle, map and fingers crossed for smooth sailing (cycling) – we were off into peak hour traffic.

Travelling well, until 300 yards down the road I nearly cleaned up another cyclist coming towards me!  He was on the wrong side of the road wasn’t he? (Of course it was me on the wrong side and this near miss instantly doubled my concentration.)

City traffic had to be battled to get to the Appian Way and staying in the middle of other riders was a good option! The guide had explained all the hand instructions he would be using, plus a quick overview of road rules.  I still managed to get stuck at the first traffic light while the others cycled off!

Arch of Drufus

We stopped at the Arch of Drufus for a water break (after leaving the traffic behind) and learnt some history of the area.

Historians haven’t agreed on why this ancient arch was built – but most believe it was before before the ancient aqueduct which conveniently had part of its route running over the top.

The Catacombs that grace the Appian Way were to be our next stop to rest our feet.

The Catacombs of Saint Sebastian

Saint Sebastian was a martyr and the patron saint of athletes and archers.  Our tour was with a man of the cloth, originally from Queensland, Australia.  Funny how the Aussie accent always brings a smile to your face when totally unexpected.

First stop is the third level – about 12m under the ground. (Think about this if you suffer chlaustraphobia).

The tomb-lined tunnels of the catacombs stretch for miles and are layer upon layer deep with many Christians buried there recognized as martyrs and saints.

The catacombs were low-budget underground cemeteries dating back to the 3^rd and 4^th century. By the Middle Ages they were abandoned and forgotten only to be rediscovered centuries later.

There’s no longer bones lying around to spook you out, but many symbolic carvings still decorate the walls. These include:

• a fish that stands for Jesus,
• an anchor (which is a camouflaged cross)
• a phoenix with a halo to symbolize the resurrection.

After half an hour underground we were welcomed by fresh air and back on the bikes.

Tomb of Caecilia Metella

More uphill pedalling (yay for the electric bikes) brings you to the tomb of Caecilia Metella with its massive tower. Cecilia was the daughter of a consul of Rome and born into the wealthy Caecilius Metellus family.

The tomb is actually part of the medieval Caetani Castle that used to stretch along both sides of the Appian Way. The castle protected both the important road and the southern area of Rome.

Listening to our guide share this information it was easy to drift off and imagine what life was like in those days.

• Ladies in waiting,
• Dancing at society and debutante balls,
• Exquisite clothing

Of course there would have been the odd war or so to contend with!

My trance was abruptly stopped when I saw were cycling towards the Park of the Aquaducts. (Wait for me!)

Park of the Aquaducts along the Appian Way

Ancient Rome was called the  “queen of waters” for a good reason.  By AD 52 there was enough fresh water flowing into Rome daily to provide over 1,000 litres to all 1m residents!

Eleven of these superstructures ran for 300 miles (480 kms) and brought water from springs some 50 miles (80 kms) away.

Generators and pumps weren’t heard of in those days – the water arrived on the simple principle that it always runs down hill.

Aqueducts are still in use today and famously still feeds the world-renowned Trevi-fountain. (NB – I stood beside the fountain the day before and tossed a coin in for a wish.  Some man moved in front at the time of my well aimed throw the coin bounced of his head never reaching the fountain!  That’s one wish with Buckley’s chance of coming true!)

Wine and Cheese with 2,000 Sheep.

The European summers have long and magical twilights and this is when we arrived at the Fattoria della Vaccareccia sheep farm – inside the Caffarella Park on the Appian Way.

The ancient stone farmhouse once had an aquaduct running right over the top!

Baby lambs were leaping about and 2,000 sheep being rounded up after their daily graze along the Appian Way.  Delicious home-made cheese, bread and wine were laid out on a table  for us to enjoy.  AND ENJOY WE DID!

The group swapped many stories  – who’s been here and there and where to travel next.  The hectic Rome traffic was beckoning, and all too soon we were back amongst it and back to reality.

Information:

Top Bike Rental and Tours (www.topbikerental.com (I book on line because I always do)

• Office and meeting point, Via Labicana 49, RomeSix hours (approximately four of riding)
  – Cost of tour – €79 (AUD $110)
  – Cost includes – electric or cabon fibre bikes, helmets, water & map
  – Difficulty level – leisure-intermediate (you do need to have good balance on a bike)
  – Road rules – cycling on right hand side of the road.
  – Tipping – Tip the guide 10% per person of tour cost
  – General – Gypsy A-Z tips

Riding the ancient Appian Way in Rome – a must do for any Boomer Traveller who visits Rome.

Location