Barge and Bike Through the Loire Valley

Loire Valley, here we come on two wheels!

Over a glass of wine one day, a decision was made to change our regular bicycle ride route – so we headed off to France…as you do!

For eight incredible days we cycled through the lush Loire Valley followed by relaxed evenings on the “Anna Maria IV” barge with our hosts, their young son and our guide.

Planning to visit Europe for a few weeks and enjoy bike riding?  Why not include a bike ride for a week.  There’s no better way to see the French countryside, with wineries as far as the eye can see, than on two wheels.

There’s absolutely no need to be a professional cyclist – you just be able to ride and stay upright!

Let’s face it, most Baby Boomers rode a bike in their younger years – and you never forget how to ride.

Electric Bikes.

Being of grey nomad age and now adverse to really steep hills, we decided to hire electric bikes.  We found this to be a sensible decision, especially when faced with the haul up to Sancerre!  I readily admit we are no Tour de France competitors!

Shorter bike rides had been enjoyed in Singapore, Rome, Skagway (Alaska) and Paris – but this was for eight days and we crossed everything crossable that we’d make it!

The bikes had a large pannier for our cameras, jacket, lunch and other odds and ends. These were really handy, because you could just unclip them and use them for a bag when walking around the villages and towns.  (Not trendy looking but useful!)

How Far Do You Ride?

Distances travelled each day through the Loire Valley were between 40 and 60 kms at an easy pace with plenty of photo stops.

The guide was always at the front and ‘a sweep’ at the back of the group to make sure no one got lost!

There were also cyclists placed on corners at various points to make sure the group turned when needed.  Both the sweep and cyclists, when needed, were changed each day.   This back-up system worked a treat and no-one went missing in action.

Who to Book With?

Our travel agent booked through Utracks (www.utracks.com) – a well-organised company (part of the World Expeditions Travel Group) that we would highly recommend.

Meeting at the Gare du Nord in Paris, we met up with the other 16 riders and were whisked off to Cours-les-Barres to settle into our cabins on the “Anna Maria IV”.

Maybe because we booked early – 12 months ahead – we scored a porthole in our cabin – but not everyone had these.  The barge cabins were basic but comfortable with bunks, shower, sink,  toilet and enough space to get changed one at a time!

This also means that luggage needed to be kept to a minimum.  We stored one of our suitcases in Paris at the Gare du Nord Station where they have a massive cloakroom.

The rear of the barge had another casual sitting area to watch the sun come up or go down, hang you washing out or just sit and enjoy the Loire Valley.

Bike and Barge – Day 1:

The first night was all about settling in, getting our bikes organised and meeting up with the rest of the group at dinner.  The guide was Dutch and the rest of the group came from Australia, New Zealand, Holland and England with age ranges from 55 to 80!  (It was always the 80 year olds that were up in front!)

It’s all about food…

Our guide would every morning go into the village where we were moored and purchase a massive bag of fresh baguettes for breakfast.  (Thank goodness we were doing some cycling exercise – I personally felt more like Billy Bunter every day!)

Each day in the small, but cosy dining room (that had a small bar in the corner) we were served:

• Breakfast – continental style – fresh baguettes, cold meats, cheese fruit and yoghurt + tea and coffee.
• BYO Lunch – We made our own sandwich (baguette) at breakfast time and had drinks and fruit provided to take with us for the day.
• Dinner – so many wonderful creations, my favourite being Chicken (Poulet) Casserole

Bike and Barge – Day 2

Before we set off, a few early birds went to the village markets for a quick bargain hunt.  Everything was for sale – fresh produce to antiques from 14^thcentury old castles!

Then it was onto our saddles to ramp up the pedal power…Loire Valley, here we come!  In all we rode 60kms the first day, through the picturesque and historical villages of Apremont and Nevers (our lunch stop) before heading back to the barge.  We found the bar on board was open and we enjoyed a well-earned coldie – at very reasonable prices.

To top of a satisfying first day we were treated to fireworks in the village of Cours-les-Barres that was holding its annual summer festival.

Bike and Barge – Day 3

Staying on the barge we cruised to the village of Beffes before we cycled along the undulating countryside – this was all feeling a bit surreal at this stage.  I mean, cycling through the Loire Valley had always been a dream.

The ancient Roman town of La Charite-sur-Loire was the first stop of the day where we treated to wonderful views of the valley.

A bonus of the day was a wine tasting of Pouilly Fume dry whites, for which the region is famous.  Menetreol was where we sipped away – with some of the group swishing the wine around the glass and then their mouth pretending to be expert sommeliers!  Me, I was happy to drink in (excuse the pun) the views of the magnificent vineyards laid out before us.

Bike and Barge – Day 4

Sancerre vineyards in the Loire Valley, with their light and fruity wines, were on the agenda today as were the hills!   We learnt that Sancerre is the oldest wine area in the Loire with origins dating back to the 12^thCentury!

Enjoying an hour to wander through the town we were met by welcoming wine cellar owners at every corner encouraging us to sample the result of their grapes.  (Most of us resisted knowing that we had many kms to pedal before days end).

Leaving Sancerre across many vineyards and through wine villages where the where the scenery was absolutely classical.

Many times we cycled past crops of corn and maize, plus fields of bright sunflowers, with flowers so big that you wanted to stop and run crazy amongst them.  Just looking at sunflowers brought a smile to everyone’s face!

Our faithful barge was waiting at Beaulieu-sur-Loire with tempting smells of dinner being cooked wafting up from the galley!

Bike and Barge – Day 5

Now this day ended differently.  After cycling past the historic locks of Chatillon-sur-Loire and visiting two castles we headed back to the barge and then cruised across the River Loire on an aqueduct!

What an odd feeling to look over the edge of the barge at the Loire River ‘underneath’ us.

The Briare canal where we moored was old – built in 1605 – although they all looked old to me!.  The town is well known for its porcelain buttons made from feldspar and milk! Then there’s the town hall, chateau, church and museum to explore – all very close to each other.

Day 6 – A Day Off

I decided to take the day off and stay on the barge.  This gave me the chance to catch up on writing and experience going through 12 locks while the others headed off on bikes to explore more castles and green countryside.

The Lock Houses all had amazing assortment of brightly coloured flower boxes and gardens – in full bloom because it was summer.  There were Sunflowers, Begonia, Petunias, Roses, Daisies and many other varieties in beds and tubs.

Rogny-les-Sept Ecluses was the mooring for the night – a town made famous for its engineering feat of seven historical locks.  As for me, I felt like the Queen welcoming weary riders back on board!

Day 7 – Bike and Barge finale.

Another executive decision was made – not to ride with the group but instead to explore Rogny, its famous locks and enjoy the town at a slow pace by bike. (Several people in the group made the same decision, rather than head off to markets and another castle.)

Another splendid dinner of Chicken a Poulet  was served by our hosts and the evening was full of laughter, birthday celebrations (three) and sharing our cycling stories and mishaps along the way.

Day 8 – homeward bound.

Farewelling our hosts mid morning it was back on the bus to Gare du Nord, Paris, where our trip finished.

By the time we had reached Paris, many plans had been made to cycle in other areas of France – or maybe Italy – or maybe Spain – or maybe Holland!

A Bike and Barge holiday through the Loire Valley is an excellent choice for Baby Boomers.

Handy Hints:

• Remember you are in Europe – ride on the RIGHT HAND side of the roads/paths, and be particularly careful when turning corners and going around roundabouts.
• Currency is Euro (obviously) with a conversion rate of AUD$1.61 buying 1 Euro (at July 2018)
• For small purchase items shopkeepers prefer cash.

What to Wear:

• Lycra not necessary, but padded bike pants make the journey more comfortable – plus a gel seat pad.
• Helmet + cap underneath when sunny. (We took our old ones and left them behind on the barge for others to use)
• Gloves if riding during the hotter months.
• Decent sandals or lightweight joggers (and socks).
• NB – you can only wear rubber soled shoes on the barge. (Definitely no high heels!)
• Wickable t-shirts with collars are best, as you can get very hot. You can wash these overnight and they dry easily.
• Or, cotton loose shirts and a bandana for the back of your neck.
• Shorts. (Note – very brief shorts are a no no)
• Light jacket for spring/summer otherwise a warmer one for other seasons.
• Sunglasses with high UV lenses.

Remember to Take:

• Suncream – 30+
• European travel adapter
• Personal medication

Handy to know the basic French words:

Hello – Bonjour
Goodbye = Au revoir
Please = Sʼil vous plait
Thank you = Merci
Excuse me = Excusez moi
Do you speak English? = Parlez vous anglais?
Enjoy your meal = Bon appétit
Cheers = Sante!