300 years and the stonework is still a work of art.
The wheels of our bus had left the 1,000 year old city of Sibenik and we were on our way to experience traditional Croatian life (and food) at the small village of Jurlinovi Dvori up in the Primosten Hills.
The bus trip took about half an hour from the coast of Sibenik where there were grape vines and olive groves as far as the eye could see. A sight once seen never forgotten.
Rain had started to fall when we arrived at the truly charming stone-built settlement in a rural, and rocky, setting, but no one was worried.
Why you ask? Because we were all famished and the promise of authentic Croatian fare was upper most on everyone’s mind!
Don Stipe Perkov, the enthusiastic priest who has restored the traditional stone settlement, greeted us. The tiny village has been in his family for many generations and he is now the sole survivor. Don doesn’t speak English but his welcome was as warm as the room waiting for us to enjoy lunch.
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Eat Drink and be Merry at Jurlinovi Dvori
Long medieval style tables were waiting for us and traditional entertainment by two young village men who expertly played piano accordions instantly created a party atmosphere.
Entertainment by the local lads at Jurlinovi Dvori
The walls featured many religious icons including an amazing large hand-made lace creation of the Virgin Mary.
Did you know that Croatia has a rich tradition of lacemaking?
Walking into the Eating Room we were offered delicious, plump, home grown dried figs closely followed by:
Appetizer:
- Home made bread
- Cabbage dish (similar to sour kraut)
- Platters of Prosciutto
- Slices of soft “sheep” cheese. (Isn’t life just all about cheese)
Main course – served with the popular Croatian red while called Babic.
- Garden potatoes and carrots roasted in olive oil
- Pork that had a delicious salty roasted taste
Desert – served with Walnut Schnapps.
- “Sfingi” – individual donut looking concoctions that tasted delicious and very sweet! For the authentic Sfingi recipe click here.
Exploring the Jurlinovi Dvori Estate
The rain had stopped and after the lunchtime merriment, it was time to walk off at least a few calories and explore all that had been created on this small estate.
Flowers in corners at Jurlinovi Dvori
Healthy crops of vegetables were in every field, including 1,000 Babic vines and a private olive grove. The distant hills had figs and almond trees growing and just about every nook and cranny of the estate had containers of colourful flowers.
Veggie patches.
But first we met – Janko the Resident Donkey
Afterynoon entertainment was courtesy of the resident donkey – Janko. His trick was to latch on to the sleeve of anyone walking past and not letting go until he was offered compensation.
Guests were regularly scuttling around pulling up handfuls of grass to encourage Janko to let go of some poor soul in his grasp.
This worked every time. He would then grab at another passing sleeve, or handbag, of anyone that ventured too close and wait for his next offering.
Janko was conveniently (for him) tethered right next to one of the main stone paths meaning he had a ready made “captive” audience.
Meet Janko the sleeve tugging Donkey at Jurlinovi Dvori.
did you know that donkeys are synonymous with the region because they are very surefooted and not afraid of the sun. For centuries they’ve been used to carry heavy products such as wood, across the rocky terrain.
Buildings on the Jurlinovi Dvori estate
The estate is a cluster of buildings that face the sun, built in the 16th century with everything created out of local stone. A high wall protects it from the cold bura wind that comes from the north.
The old stone buildings.
Eight terraced buildings were built in a circle that formed a court in the centre – about 200 square metres. This was used as a kind of family room where they would eat, rest, entertain visitors and everything else that happens in a household.
The 300 year old historical buildings featured:
- A library that is home to 2,000 books – many exceptionally rare
- Sacral collection – exhibits spanning 2,000 years
- Kitchen
- Distillation Room
- Cellar
- Bedroom
- A small chapel decorated with stained German glass.
Library.
Can you imagine spending an entire summer at Jurlinovi Dvori? Picking olives, vegetables and grapes, learning how to make lace and taking leisurely walks into the next village of Draga. All this followed by Happy Hours while sipping away on a glass of Babic and pulling up bunches of grass for Janko the Donkey so he doesn’t latch on to your clothes. I definitely can.
Handy Information
- Pre-booked tours usually include a tasty lunch of authentic Croatian food. If travelling individually you are still welcome to look around the village of Jurlinovi Dvori.
If on a road trip:
- Tours can be booked through Trip Advisor
- Car rental with Cheap Car Hire, Sebinik – rentalcars/com
Accommodation:
- Trip Advisor – for Sibenik hotels
- Airbnb – for Sibenik
My general travel tips – Gypsyat60 tips – might come in handy as well.
J
